The True Cost of Cheap
published 28 May 2019 / written by Emily Peters
Let’s have a sit-down about the state of the fashion & textiles industries and how our attitudes and choices as consumers affect the way these industries function. First, they are industries, which means they exist to serve what we buy. If we as consumers choose to buy certain items, then the industry will respond by creating more of whatever we’re buying. Not only will they produce more to support the buyer demand, the industry has historically sought out cheaper and cheaper ways to make the item that is in demand. If they have no customer to serve, they stop making that product or cease to exist. This is why our choices to support eco-friendly, local, fair-trade, organic and sustainable producers makes such a huge difference in every facet of our world. Why do I personally choose to design at EIY (formerly Atelier E) with sustainably produced, organic, natural, and reclaimed (upcycled) fabrics? Because the fabrics industry is not only a hot mess of pollution from the beginning to the end of the lifecycle of the product, but also endangers the Earth and everyone/thing on it.
Let's start with man-made fabrics - polyester, nylon and rayon. These three fibers were created to mimic natural fibers and they dominate the industry today. Polyester was created to mimic wool and its base is plastic. So it lives forever, along with every other piece of plastic ever made. Nylon was invented to mimic linen and is a polymer derived from crude oil, so once you've discarded that nylon dress, it will also not biodegrade for many thousands of years. Rayon, which mimics silk, is not as polluting at the end of its lifecycle because it's made of cellulose fibers that decompose easily. The problem with rayon is that the cellulose fibers are made from trees and agricultural products which are harvested and grown unethically. Some brands of rayon have begun to ensure that their plant fiber sources are sustainably harvested or organically grown without harmful pesticides and chemical fertilizers.
With natural fibers like cotton, bamboo, linen, silk and wool, the pollution happens at the beginning of the life-cycle of the product. Cotton is a seriously thirsty crop and it's very fragile, so it takes tons of water and pesticides to grow cotton. Bamboo grows easily and is very hardy, but most bamboo fabrics use a chemical process to break down the woody fibers. Same thing goes for linen and hemp, so that's why it's important to
choose organic. Silk and wool are harvested from worms and sheep respectively, so choosing organic with those fabrics ensures that animals were treated well and fed with sustainably grown plant foods.
Our every choice impacts the health of our planet, so it's important that we choose with care. All the pollution outlined above, along with the over-production of so many material objects, inspired me to begin reclaiming and upcycling fabrics for EIY’s fashion and home cloth goods. Many years ago, a friend said to me, “If production of new goods stopped today, the world could probably still comfortably survive on what exists for a few years at least.” I agree. There is so much that we’ve mined, grown, leeched, pulled and extracted from our Earth and turned into material possessions. It’s time to give Our Mother a rest. Using what we have already is a great way to live, not only sustainably, but regeneratively. When we live sustainably it means the Earth and all our relations can live and sustain this level of consumption. When we live regeneratively it means we are giving back to the Earth in some way so that our eco-systems can regenerate. My way of giving back is to invest my dollars, time and energy into what has already been made and discarded by another. In this way I consciously choose to not place my energy and resources behind new production of fabrics, and the Earth can regenerate. A ‘no vote’ is just as powerful a vote as an ‘yes vote’. When applied to sustainable living practices, abstinence and action can effectively balance our Earth.
Seagrape Upcycled Beach Totes
Next, let’s take a closer look at the dyeing process. Color is so nourishing for the human body-mind-soul! Whole healing therapy modalities are based on color and its effects on our moods, the health of our nervous systems and endocrine systems. So naturally, we want to play and express with color in our clothing and accessories.
Unfortunately, the modern dyeing industry is the opposite of healthy, and plays a huge role in the pollution situation we’re experiencing, suffering, and addressing now. Many of the dyes used to achieve very vibrant, rich colors are also the most toxic to our Earth’s fragile ecosystems and the people, animals, and plants that receive the waste products from mass production. Here are some of the toxic chemicals and heavy metals used in the dyeing process and the conditions they induce:
Formaldehyde - used in tanning leather and fabric preservation solutions; respiratory & skin irritant, can cause dizziness and suffocation
Chrome VI - used in tanning leather; carcinogenic
PFCs - used to make ‘pleather’ or ‘vegan leather’; (exposure to byproducts in production) birth defects
Phthalates - used to make ‘pleather’ feel softer; birth defects
Chlorine bleach - used to make white fabrics/fibers; respiratory & skin irritant, immune suppression
Heavy metals (mercury, copper, chromium, cadmium, iron, lead, nickel, zinc, arsenic) - In the composition of many synthetic dyes and also used to make colors more vibrant. Heavy metals are carcinogenic, can cause chronic headaches and chronic fatigue. They accumulate in the body and, as a result can cause birth defects
And who is most likely to be most affected by these pollutants? Those who are underprivileged and/or living in poverty. This population also tends to be comprised mostly of people of color. Next time you make a purchase please consider the possibility that your great cheap find is contributing to the continued oppression and genocide of our sisters and brothers.
What can we do about it?
Choose brands that are transparent about their production practices.
If the brand you want isn’t transparent, ask the manufacturer about their production practices, materials and ingredients.
Opt for fabrics dyed with natural and non-toxic plant dyes (just because it says natural or organic doesn’t mean it’s not toxic)
Support brands who are legitimately using the labels: Sustainable, Slow Fashion, Eco-friendly, Green, Upcycled, Reclaimed, or Fair Trade
Choose to mend, make-do, reclaim, repurpose and upcycle.
Now that we all have the knowledge, our power can be felt in the industries that need to be reformed. We can support the businesses that support the Earth. We can sustain the practices that sustain all the people, not just those who can afford to pay for their sustenance. We can place one thing into action today, and another when we’re ready. Little by little, we can help regenerate the Earth and heal the people, plants and animals who share her air, water and soil.